Friday 2 March 2018

Dave Wellings on Making It Better

Dave Wellings on Making It Better

 When I started looking at the ins & outs of my Roadster, the first thing that struck me was the 'wasted' space of the flimsy 'plastic' tool tray under the rear deck.

Thinking, So I figured that some plywood, a bit of bracing wood, and a bit of DIY would release enough space to carry those essentials.

It was somewhat testing to get the shapes right over the diff and other bits & pieces, but eventually it fitted.

The only thing I couldn't fit in was my foot pump, so I managed to get a 12v compressor that would fit in the new tool tray. (Compressor not in picture).

Once painted matt black and lined with thin neoprene to prevent rattles, it looks quite satisfactory. 


'll see what I can do about some tool tray dimensions, but it's very tricky to convert into a workable template. 

The first thing to do is to get a sheet of thin plywood exactly the size of that which covers the standard tool tray.

I can't recall the thickness but it's around 1/8th.

Then you need to cut a rectangular hole in this sheet, but leaving enough overlap for the sides to fit in the well.

Then I located and drilled the four holes in the existing location to reuse the original holes in the frame.

On my Roadster on the nearside was a small 'extra' block of wood of indeterminate purpose which had to be worked round.

Now here's the hard part.

The diff sits in the forward part of the well, and my axle has a brake pipe on the nearside of the diff.

Space must be allowed for suspension compression, and so that the brake pipe doesn't touch, rub or chafe.

This means that the available depth varies from an inch or so over the diff, and the raised section is just visible in the photo.

The rest is between two and four inches.

The maximum depth of four inches is on the offside, so left side of the photo.

The piece of wood cut out of the initial piece can be used for the 'floor' but must be cut into sections according to available depth.

Since wood doesn't curve well, this means quite a few right angle joins.

It's very important to frame the sections with as small a cross section wood as possible, and screw & glue because you don't want it to fall apart when loaded.

I always have offcuts of wood in the garage roof, being a big DIYer, so apart from the ply, used what was there already.

I left the tray a few days to harden - which makes it rigid, then painted it satin black and applied Tectyl wax to the underside.

I used right angle plastic finisher around the hole because my woodworking is rustic to look at......

I had one incident on the first long run when the diff caught a small corner when I bottomed the suspension 'at speed'.

There was a loud crack,  which, when investigated showed that a corner of the plywood which could have been rounded off had been chopped off cleanly.

So a bit more sanding, and a squirt of paint / Tectyl and all was well.

In order to refit the original ply cover it's necessary to chamfer the wood so the it can locate further under the two metal keeps with the extra thickness of the new ply.


 I'm now psyched up for a session in the garage tomorrow, so I'm hoping to get on with the front mud flaps, and the extra badge.

I'm also working on a brake lamp relay and pedal switch, and a spare wheel securing clamp, because although I'm assured that there isn't a problem, I'd be happier with more of a physical deterrent.

My Mk1 stainless protector failed miserably at 60% complete due to drills past their best. Very annoying but a good learning curve. Stainless is very hard to work and drill accurately.
 
Finally, here's a funny thing. I noticed tonight that the wire spokes around the valve are not in alignment with the rest.

The two crossover spokes cross closer to the hub, and the two which are almost parallel around the wheel diverge more noticeably.

It's very subtle and very clever. If you have a Roadster with offset wires, have a close look. Time for bed
....................................................

My next job was 'mud flaps'.

As you know, it's very easy to get 'starred' from flying stones. BUT - it's very easy to fit rear protectors using penny washers around the rear stays.

After some deliberation thinking I used Maplin's best circuit boards (largest size) with closed cell neoprene glued both sides (Bostick).

The pcb's are 8" x 12". The larger size on the shelf at Maplins

 No thickness shown, but the fibreglass base is between 1 & 2mm.

This is single sided.

I usually get double sided but it doesn't matter - it's usually what Maplins have in stock.

https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/305x203mm-fibreglass-single-sided-pcb-board-wf41u

 The 'Mk1' version was not quite long enough ....... so I added a short length below idea as a 'mudflap mudflap' which is shaped around the rear silencers.

 Easy to make and easy to fit, this mod cost next to nothing.

 These rears are an easy fix with three penny washers.

Two above the wing stay and one below.

The front's are 'work in progress' as the stays are too low, and the cats are too close, but I'm 70% there so watch this space.

Next on the list was a mod I'd used in the world of MG.

The MGOC sells stainless steel number plate backing plates to replace the original (usually rusting) steel originals.

 In fact the post-75 spec rear plate is the same as that used on many Mogs with the number plate lamp on each side.

 Anyway I bought a pair of the pre-75 spec plates.

The first one was fitted between the rear number plate and mounting plinth, with a rubber U channel to finish off.

I think it's an improvement.......



And finally (for now) before you all log off in despair.............................

The second stainless backing plate was used as a badge bar.

Fitted the 'wrong way round', so with its flange facing forward (inside the plastic cowl),

I first added a curve (very carefully) so that it followed the grille contour, then drilled it to take the two Club badges shown in the photo.

With careful selection of spacers on the mounting bolts. I managed to get the intended effect, although I'll be revisiting this to see if I can also fit a Centenary badge, sometime soon.

I'll take a break for now, but more is in the pipeline.





First imagine a number plate sized piece of stainless steel:



This is fitted 'wrong way round' with the raw turned edge facing forward.


First I curved it to fit inside the number plate 'box' by trial & error.

Then it was marked and drilled so that it would slide over the two studs at the bottom of the grille.

Elongated holes are needed because the studs diverge.

Once you get a snug fit inside the box, and the stainless must touch the inside of the box.

You then need to space the whole thing away from the grille slightly to make room for the badge fasteners.

I've made taper washers because to my eye, the front number plate on overrider cars are angled upwards a bit too far, so mine is now a bit more level.

Once it fits back easily over the studs, offer up the badges, and drill two mounting holes for each.

Finally I spaced the badges back by one quarter inch using stainless nuts on the fasteners as spacers.

That's it really. I'll post the pics on here as soon as I get it sorted.

.............................................................

I managed to do one more thing during my first session of 'improvements', and that was the gaiters described in Miscellany a few issues ago.

These can easily be cut to shape.

I was a bit flash as I had a bit of Mohair so made then from this.

Then my 'Seamstress' abilities were tested as I had to sew on some Velcro.

They fit great and protect the rebound springs.


As a postscript to my first chapter, I've been underneath tonight cleaning the wheels and took a couple of photos of the toolbox, which shows why I cant really provide dimensions.

 This is the 'deep' section on the offside.

And this shot shows the shallow area over the diff.


I've been busy again on the Roadster, and have found some time to give you another instalment.

I'll be sending a "Brief" to Miscellany so maybe we'll see it in there eventually. 

Here we go then...

When the MotoLita steering wheel is fitted, it leaves an unsightly raw plastic edge around the cowl.

I'd pondered how to improve this for some time before hitting on a solution. 

I had a length of 'U' section neoprene left over from my rear number plate modification.

This was quite easy to slot over the plastic edge and really makes quite a difference.

My hood is black mohair, which has spent most of its life folded.

It needed a thorough clean on the inside as the frame seems to leave black marks on the lining.

I used Autoglym external hood cleaner, which was very effective.

More difficult to solve was that the two front corners of the hood had worn smooth & shiny, by rubbing on itself.

It didn't justify a replacement hood, (perish the cost!!) but constantly caught my eye in the garage, so once again I gave this some thought.

Finally I decided to stick a slightly curved mohair patch on each side to act as a buffer.

These take the form of 'eyebrows' and I made sure that the line of pile followed the original hood pile.

A couple of weeks before taking the plunge I experimented with various glues on some scrap mohair and heavy duty Bostick provided the best join.

Although this sounds to be a bit of a bodge, it looks much better than the shiny patch, so I'm happy.



As you know, under the dash is a mish-mash of wires and bare panels.

I wanted to cover this area not only for the aesthetics, but also to provide a barrier to damp.

I'd already had to replace the bulkhead carpet in front of the pedals and around the steering column, and had some carpet left over.

I fitted this first in the centre section over the tunnel, next around the steering column, and finally in the passenger foot well.

I'm very happy with the results (which look better than the photo's suggest as the flash makes the carpet look shiny & grey). 






Today - the weather became more bearable, so I looked again at the brake lamp relay situation.

First I needed to find a location under the bonnet which would be reasonably protected from the weather, and without the need to drill any holes.

I made up a small stainless steel bracket which fits on the cooling hose bracket using the existing Allen bolt and hooks over the top cross rail.

Next I made up the required loom.

At this point, all I will say is those of you familiar with wiring relays will know what to do.

Those who are not confident, leave it to an expert.

Basically the original two wires off the brake lamp hydraulic switch are transferred to the accessory terminals (30 & 87) of the relay, and a switched live is taken from the brake lamp switch to energise the relay. (86->85->Earth).

This means that the current passing across the brake lamp switch is reduced significantly.

In the world of MG (where I've been for so long) this mod extends the life of the hydraulic brake lamp switch.

The existing wiring does not need modifying, so all can be put back as it was if required.

I'm also considering a 'step two' to this mod which involves a micro switch on the brake pedal to energise the relay, but that's for another day.

Here's the installation:

Under the offside front wing is a metal box, self tapped to the inner wing panel and there to protect the steering column and universal joint.

Where the steering column goes behind this box there is little protection from 'weather'.

I tried a number of approaches to making a better seal at this point, but none were satisfactory.

In the end I used two pieces of closed cell neoprene, one on the inside and one on the outside of the hole.

They are superglued together and this makes a large grommet which works well. Here's before and after.

The before shot shows very clearly how big the gap is.



And this shot shows the arrangement with the protective box removed.

Finally, one of the securing screws from the protective box provides a handy point on which to fix a nylon clamp to hold the throttle cable off the steering column.

Mine had rubbed from new.

This is a very simple mod.


 And that's it for now. I hope you find my ramblings interesting.

The front mud flaps are no 'further forward' as I must rethink the fixings.

I may have to drill one or two holes this time!!

 First a few quick wins.

The chassis plate is now (2005 Roadster) glued to the bulkhead, but still has a hole in each corner where they were once screwed or riveted.

Anyway, I had an idle ten minutes, so I dug out four allen bolts (from my box of assorted fasteners), cut the shanks off with the hacksaw and araldited the heads in place.

My chassis number isn't 0000 by the way. That's cunning photoshop work.



When I bought the Roadster, it had clear indicator lenses........

I don't think clear looks good with red paint, so I've swopped back to orange, but used two front lenses because they provide a slightly larger surface area.

The threads for the fixing screws are different threads front to back, but could be changed as the female end in the lamp unit is brass and removable.

However the front fixing screws are longer than the original rears, so I've left well alone for now and used the rear fixings that came with the clear lenses.

Finally on the quick wins, when I bought my luggage carrier, I was advised to fit the spacer so that the rack frame rested on the spare wheel sidewall.

I wasn't keen on this solution as the spacer was not a 'best fit' that way round.

So I reversed it and fitted two shaped pieces of rubber hose.

This just sits off the sidewall, but when loaded will help to take the load.



More to follow shortly.

I just have to resize some photos.

The front wing protectors were completed yesterday!!!!!!

 You'll have seen from my first 'chapter' that the making and fitting of the rear wing protectors was very straightforward.

This was because the wing stays are perfectly positioned and at the right angle.

The fronts are far from easy. The stays are too low and the upper stay of the pair each side twists twice between chassis and wing.

This has provided a real challenge and I've been on (and off) this problem since September.

I always try to fit things without drilling if at all possible - it's too easy to get carried away with a drill!!!!

My first attempt at making brackets to fit the protectors to the stays (using one penny washer on each bracket) failed dismally.

The angles allowed the brackets to slip off.

I tried a Mark2 version with a penny washer each side of the stays, but this looked unwieldy and clumsy.

Each attempt means measuring & cutting the stainless bar, and drilling reasonably accurate holes.

Stainless is a pig to work with as anyone who has done so will know.

Anyway, next I tried a double skinned approach with an angled piece to allow the use of one penny washer to each bracket.

This arrangement is held in place with double sided tape but once fitted is held by the bolts.

I used Maplins two foot stainless ruler for this once more.

It's a very handy source of stainless bar, and I'm on my third now!

The first picture shows the Mk3 brackets - note the two different angles.

Two are right angled and two are around 120degrees.

These brackets are the original Mark1's which have had pieces of the Mark2 added.

The next photo shows two brackets with nuts, bolts & washers.

Next we have the wing protectors.

Made in the same way as the rears, a large printed circuit board from Maplins, which is something like fibreglass with a thin copper layer, and exactly the right size without cutting.

On the side facing the wheel is my favourite 'closed cell Neoprene', cut to shape.

You can just see in this shot that I've added a small tab made from aluminium to shield the rubber from the exhaust.

This is bolted on to the protector, and is more apparent in later shots.

On the other side which faces the Cat, I've placed the copper side of the circuit board onto which is glued a thermal barrier silver weave from Agriemach.

This is to make sure there's no potential for heat damage from the Cats - which are quite close.

Here are the two brackets fitted to the offside.

And here's the protector fitted.

You can see from this in line shot that the protector sits behind the side indicator.

I wondered if a fastener would be needed higher up, but it seem OK.

I'll keep an eye on it for a while just to be on the safe side.

 This is how it looks from behind.

The camera angle makes it look sloped, but it is horizontal.

Note the proximity of the Cat.

Here's a photo of the finished product.

Still jacked up, hence the larger than normal gap from tyre to arch.

There's still a gap of a couple of inches between flap and inner wing.

I was very careful on the first run after fitting, but the wing is no hotter over the cat.

I'm no aerodynamicist, but it's possible that the narrow gap will draw air through faster!!  

And here's the Nearside:

( I couldn't get the last two photos to show in previous post - probably size limit!!)

First the brackets in position.


Next the fitted protector.

And finally the inside.

You know, what amazes me about all this, is that most of the stuff I'm messing with is not available commercially.

You'd think after all the years the trad body design has been around, things like this would be off the shelf.

More is planned but for now, that's all Folks.

***************************************************************************************************

Here's a follow-up to the rear lamp alternatives mentioned at the beginning of this thread.

Since fitting front indicators to the rear to get better light intensity, I've been wondering whether to fit L795 red lens covers to the stop/tail lights.

This is the same lens cover as the fog lamp on later Morgans.

Be aware that the fog lamp lens (and the reversing lamp lens) is riveted to the bezel and the whole thing rotates and unscrews from the housing.

The other rear lamps are retained conventionally with two crosshead setscrews, which locate into a brass 'female' T shaped block fitted from behind the bezel and held in place with black tape.

The replacement lenses subject to this note need longer setscrews, and the threads of the longer screws are much finer than original.

This means a bit of a fiddle to change the brass female blocks.

The reason that these lenses produce a bit more light is that they have a shiny plastic reflector around the bulb, and an improved lens design.

Front indicators are already like this, and clear indicator lenses come fitted with these reflectors. The orange and clear lenses are both L794 by the way.

So to change the red reflectors, you'll need two lenses, two silver reflectors, and four setscrews with matching brass blocks.

This is how it looks.

Thanks to Graham at Rutter's for sorting me out with the lenses & screws.

I already had the silver reflectors from the clear lenses I removed last year.

One more thing about the later spec round fog lamps / reversing lamps.

I had a closer look this afternoon.

As already mentioned above, they unscrew and the fixing is in the style of a jam jar top from the sixties.

But there's also a cunning taper fit against the rubber housing which makes it tight. 

I'd originally supposed that the blind rivets which are visible in the screw holes secured the lens to the metal bezel........

But no......  The lens is secured with what appears to be clear silicon sealer.

Those blind rivets are short (half inch) decorative pieces, and can be slid out, and replaced with decorative crosshead screws to match the other rear lamps.

So being a bit anal, this is what I've now done.  

******************************************************************************************************************
A final quick win on this thread - I've just tidied the rear plastic skirt with some edging.....which matches the number plate box and spoiler.

I also discovered that the plastic skirt is off centre by about a half inch. Handmade cars eh????

Making It Better Summary

I thought it might be an idea to draw up a summary of the main mods to my Mog, so here it is.

If you'd like help in doing anything - or would like something making up, please pm me to see what's possible. I'll have more time if I ever retire of course!!!!

Here we go then.........................

Degree of difficulty is quoted using the Haynes spanner rating �����.

Front spoiler: Five Spanner
Components: Spoiler; neoprene edging; primer; top coat; stainless fixings
Cut to fit; fabricate brackets

Underbonnet insulation: Two/three spanner
Components: Reflective woven material; reflective self adhesive material; cable ties; sheet aluminium (1mm thick or slightly less); stainless fixings; contact adhesive; brown paper for templates.
Cut to fit; fabricate brackets (alternator and clutch master cylinder).

Coilpack protector: Four spanner
Components: Reflective woven material; reflective self adhesive material sheet aluminium (1mm thick or slightly less); h/d neoprene sheet; contact adhesive; brown paper for templates.
Make template; cut aluminium; shape aluminium;

Front wing protectors (mudflaps); Four spanner
Components: Large circuit boards; reflective woven material; h/d neoprene sheet; contact adhesive; stainless fixings.
Fabricate brackets; cut and fix neoprene; cut and fix reflective woven material.

Under dash carpet; Two spanner
Components: Carpet; brown paper for templates; cable ties.
Make templates; Cut and fit carpet.

Microswitch brake lamp modification: Four spanners
Components: Microswitch; stainless sheet; wiring; connectors; relay.
Make brackets for relay and microswitch; make up wiring; fit to car and test.


Floorboard protection: One spanner
Components: Danish oil.
Remove seats; apply oil.

Windstop: Five spanner
Components: Clear PVC sheet cut to order; neoprene edging; stainless fixings; stainless sheet (0.7mm to 1mm thick).
Make templates; fabricate stainless brackets; trial fit and adjust; assemble parts and road test.

Half-half tonneau cover: Three spanner
Components: Twillfast/Mohair; h/d neoprene sheet; fasteners.
Make template; cut and trim mohair; test fit; fit fasteners; final adjustments.


Winter buddy tonneau: Four spanner
Components: Twillfast/Mohair; mohair edging strip; h/d neoprene sheet; fasteners.
Make template; cut and trim mohair; test fit; fit fasteners; final adjustments; have edging fitted by trimmer.

Toolbox: Five spanner
Components: plywood; plastic L channel; various wood lengths; wood screws; neoprene sheet (3mm).
Make template; assemble wooden box to fit available space; road test and adjust.

Note that I have in mind an uprated version in aluminium, time permitting, so watch this space�����.

Rear wing protectors: One spanner
Components: Large circuit boards; h/d neoprene sheet; contact adhesive; stainless fixings.
Cut and fix neoprene sheet to PCB; attach to car with penny washers.

Spare wheel insert: One spanner
Components: pre-cut PVC circle; neoprene.
Measure inside of spare wheel and order plastic; fit with two small neoprene holders.

Spare wheel security device: Five spanner.
Components: Stainless sheet (0.7mm thick); exhaust clamps; stainless fixings; neoprene sheet � various thickness and density; neoprene edging.
Make template; cut and shape stainless sheet; make fixing brackets; trial fit; finish with neoprene padding and edging.
Centre rear light for use with luggage: Four spanner.
Components: Stainless sheet (0.7mm thick); neoprene sheet (3mm); LED light unit; stainless fasteners; wiring & connectors.
Make template; cut and shape stainless bracket; assemble light unit with wiring; solder plug; fix umbilical wiring to car with matching plug and secure in spare wheel well; test fit and adjust; road test. 

Useful links:
Not exhaustive, and no connection with any, but they serve my every need��
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