How is your Engine Air Intake Attached ?

How is your Air Intake Attached ?

 The Standard Roadster 100  Air Filter Box is located on the Nearside of the engine.

 The Orange Air Filter can be seen in this partially opened Filter Box.

The Standard Roadster 100 Air Filter Extension and Air Intake Tube is located on the offside.

This Intake tube is attached to the Air Filter Intake Nozzle using this large Stainless Steel Clamp.

Note! I put the, now untidy, block of 1/2in Neoprene under the bonnet hinge to stop the Filter Box hitting the hinge.

A view of the Air Filter Intake Nozzle from the near side. 

The Air Ducting from the Air Filter Box to the Fuel Injectors is first attached to this control Valve.

The Control Valve is attached to the Air Filter Box using these 4 bolts.

The short curved length of hose is connected to both the Valve and the Fuel Injectors by these two large Jubilee Clips.

The Fuel Injectors end of the Curved Hose. 

I wonder if anyone can help?

While trying to establish the cause of an unusual noise I noticed that the end of the Air Intake was only attached to the New Mulfab Aluminium Radiator Tie Rod using a Long Cable Tie. The Cable Tie was hidden under a strip of Black Duct Tape

This fixing allowed the Flexible Hose to Swing, Move and Slide along the Tie Rod. There is also a home made piece of mesh attached to the open end of the pipe.

Unfortunately, I have no idea how the pipe was fixed when the Original Morgan Radiator was in place or what was on the pen end of the Air Intake Pipe.

The Flexible Air Intake Pipe

Seen from Below - The Cable Tie going diagonally under the Tie Rod. 

The Same View from further back

Photo on it side - Showing the Join in the Cable Tie

Help Came from Owners Philip, Terry, Klaus, Alan, Gerald and Robert (previous owner of No.017)

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Hi Frank.

I still have the original radiator and air intake system although planning to change the Rad as an insurance policy, given the number of failures.

The answer is that there was a standard Morgan factory fitting for the air intake i.e. Nothing.  

The open end of the hose was just dangling and facing downwards. 

Techniques moved it up above the top of the radiator as I was told that would give the best cool air intake for engine performance.

Pictures attached showing the free end of the pipe pulled out from its current location and in place at the top right hand side of the radiator.  

There is nothing holding it in place, its just wedged.  

Looks like you have a serious upgrade with your cable tie and duck tape!

Regards, Philip

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Hi Frank, photos of our radiator below.

As you can see our air intake is very short with a mesh cone shaped filter fitted on the end (above washer bottle)

I assume that's it?

There are only 3 other hoses on the radiator, top & bottom hoses and a small hose going back to header tank.

Not sure this helps you much?

Terry

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Good Morning Frank,

     As you know I did the conversion of the radiator by myself.

I remember the position of the air intake hose with the original radiator is exactly the same as it is now.

The hose was much more free to get air input in this position because the old radiator was not that height as the new one. 

The hose was not fixes there with cable tie ore anything else.

But the air which goes in the hose could not come direct from the front, because of the windshields between grill and radiator.

As you can see at my photo, I also did not fasten the hose after my conversion and it doesn't move.

But I placed it as much right as possible to get nearly 1/4 free input around the outside of the new radiator and something more than 1/4 through the radiator.

Also at the outside I get fresh air because I cut the windshield at the side an bottom (it doesn't fit because of the more laying installation of the new radiator).

I don´t want the aluminium-radiator being touched by the shields!

Now I have a gap between shield and radiator at the bottom about 3- 5 mm and at the top about 10- 15 mm.

     I have done some miles since conversion, we talked about last year, and it works in perfect way.

Together with the fluid conversion (Waterless Coolant) now my Fan does rarely switch on and the temperature stays nearly all time at 80 - 90.

I never have seen the "mosscap" at the last photo, so sorry no idea.

Hope I could help you.   Wish all of you a happy new year.  

Klaus

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Hi Frank

Best wishes for the new year.

I can confirm that the air intake hose is exactly the same on Merlin 002.

I have been looking for a way too attempt a cooler air intake position but it's not easy with the front end design.

I thought of extending the hose to try and get a lower cooler intake but don't quite no what the effect would be in the rain.

I have heard of water injection but think I would want more professional  guidance.

Let me know if you come up with anything

Alan

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Dear Frank,

I can confirm that Phillip, of course, is quite right about the original factory installation of the Air Intake.

Attached is a photograph of my R100 (No. 17) as it came near to completion at the Factory.

It has just left the trim shop and has been pushed out into the yard and the cowl has been removed exposing the end of the Air Intake, clearly resting on the top of the radiator.

There was no fixing; it was just left loose. And that was how it was delivered to the main agents when I collected it
some weeks later.

I thought that there must have been an oversight and that it had not been connected properly: but no - that was it, as
completed by the factory.

All the best,
Robert. (Former owner of R100 No. 017)

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Hi Frank

Yes I have the same pipe in the same place loose on top of my new Alloy Radiator. 

It is not fixed.

I have been thinking of a mod to make it look better and to keep it  in one place  , I check to see if it has moved from time to time.

Please let me know how you get on ...

Gerald

V8 MOC

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While searching my photos trying to find one of those rubber 'Mosscaps' in use I came across this photo with a very nice front end to the air intake tube ( used on a different model and probably customised by it owner ).

If I can find out its source I will pass on the info.

Frank

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During the investigation I also found this 2.5cm x 1cm Rubber Cover lodges behind the Brake Servo.

Does anyone have any idea where it is from or where it should be fitted?

Best Wishes

Frank

Dave's How To: Workshop - Front Valance and Undertray

I haven't been idle since my last installment. So here's an update on work in hand.

First the front UJ grease nipple. Not entirely clear from the photo but a standard gun won't fit because the UJ yoke gets in the way. 

It's a matter of one or two mm. When I get a needle dispenser I'll post a picture.

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The fix used by several manufacturers back in the day for inaccessible grease nipples was to remove the grease nipple during service and fit a longer one (these used to be available about 1.5" long. After the grease the nipple MUST be changed back as the angle of the yokes would shear it off.

Some cars even had screw slot blanking plugs where there was not even room for a short nipple. Sounds a faff but in reality takes seconds and as you can image a few pence compared to a new grease gun or fancy end piece. I am sure someone somewhere would have stock and with a 1/4 drive small socket could be a useful addition to your kit.

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I already have a selection of longer and angled nipples Colin, but my longest straight nipple does fit but still just not long enough. I quite fancy a box of special ends but it's also tempting to make up something special.
At the moment it's low priority........

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This is my Centenary badge. It's badly pitted. I tried a vinegar bath and it did help a bit, but except for the centre rectangle, which appears to be proper enamel, the rest of the black is paint which shells off. 

At the moment I've removed it all, after trying to lacquer the badge as a preserver. It didn't work. Disappointing quality.

This next photo is looking down at the inner wing. I've grommeted nearly all the holes in both inner wings and there are plenty. 

This one is an elongated slot which is used to provide clearance for the steering column, but is on both sides. Anyway, having considered leaving it open, I decided to seal it with a Reflect-a-Cool adhesive patch.

And while the Reflect-a-Cool was out, I made up a sausage for the intake tract.

I've been pressing on with my under tray. It needs to be in two parts, and the easiest piece to do is that which goes between the cross tube and the sump. 

I'm now confident enough to use 1.5mm aluminium, bent in my wood and G clamp metal bender:

Having begun with a cardboard template - the panel I fitted to Bumble slotted over the lower chassis horizontal, but this time I've fitted it underneath, with a neoprene gasket, and secured using the towing eye bracket fixings, and the two holes on the opposite side. The angled flanges at either end make this strong.

This is the completed item:

This is the gap:

And this is fitted:

The section from the cross tube forward takes a lot more effort, and I've been working on this for a few days on and off.

I removed the over-riders and front number plate box and took the opportunity to improve the paint on the back of the over-riders. This is VW Reflex Silver.

After cutting the aluminium sheet to an approximate size, the fun starts. First the front bend - done over my jack handle.

Use decent snips............

This is how I got a match each side. After cutting as much as possible it's painstaking filing.

Now came the tricky bit. On both my previous Morgans the over-rider brackets are fitted with the horizontal flanges facing each other. 

These flanges have four holes and these can be used to secure the front valance. But on this car the brackets are the other way round. 

So I had a choice of either changing them round, or making my own brackets.

So here is my starting point. Two brackets fabricated together and then cut in half. The front one is on the vice, the rear is over the screwdriver. 

This is how they fit, using existing holes.

Now painted black and fitted:

After test fitting and adjusting:

After etch primer and grey primer. 

The hairdryer is to warm things up. This is today and it's a bit chilly and damp.

First coat of yellow. This is a base coat and is FIAT yellow. 

Now I must be patient and let this harden off for a few days before flatting down, and applying more yellow and lacquer. 

Painting is my least comfortable activity - I'm not patient enough!!!

Pictures of final fitting will follow in a few days, depending on how the paint goes on.

Well, over the last few days I've finished the lower valance.

Three colour coats and a few lacquer coats, flatted down between coats, so plenty of waiting involved.

This was the final top coat prior to lacquering:

This is the inside. Small leather patches to protect the paint. And neoprene edging to the front.

Completed:

It's turned out better both in design and finish than the one I did for Bumble.

A reminder how it looks as standard:

And now with the panel added:

And with the number plate box added:

I may now have a go at two quarter valances - one either side of the over-rider irons. I've done some cardboard templates today................

I'm pleased with how this has turned out. It keeps all the road dirt out and looks good, even though it's all but invisible from above.

A final push this week to get the quarter panels finished.

Starting with cardboard templates. Then the usual bending process, with the outer curve trued up with a file and some coarse abrasive.

I'm hoping to keep the brackets simple - one bolt onto the over-rider brackets and one into the panel. 

I won't know if this will be good enough until a road test.

This is after etch primer, two grey primer coats and four colour coats flatted down between coats, plus two coats of lacquer, flatted and polished (over a few days). 

The slot goes around the over-rider bracket and I would have preferred to keep the neoprene U channel but there isn't enough clearance. Here it's fitted but it had to go.

The other side.......

This is how it fits. Held onto the bracket with a penny washer, so no drilling required. 

If it doesn't stay put in use I may have to put an extra hole through the bracket.

UPDATE: I did add another bolt, through a new hole in the over-rider brackets each side.

This side went straight on.

The other side took a bit of fettling.

And that pretty much brings my metalwork to a finish. All I need now is a bigger wind-stop, and that will wait for a while.

This mod really tidies the front and could easily be offered by the factory.

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