Dave Wellings on Series 1 Roadster & Plus 4 Servicing.

Dave Wellings on Series 1 Roadster Servicing.
With additions for a Plus 4

So for reasons that would take too long to relate on here, I found myself planning a service this weekend.

First job was to visit the Ford Dealer (only five miles down the road) to get an oil filter. This was the first stumbling block.

Here you can see three filters. On the left is a Crosland 2193 which was fitted last June by a Mog specialist, but not a full Dealer.

In the centre is what you get when you ask for a 3.0 V6 ST220 oil filter.

On the right is the correct Ford part. Ford ref 1119421, also known as EFL600.

Apparently this is a 'Zetec' filter so it appears that the same oil filter fits all three Ford engines.The price was £6.89 plus VAT.

If you look closely you will see that the centre (incorrect) filter has a larger diameter female thread than the other two.

The equivalent Jaguar filter is quoted as XR8E6714AB
On the box it now says XR823395 - but filter stiil shows first number.

Price is just over £9 plus VAT. More expensive than the EFL600 Ford ZETEC filter, but not the same manufacturer.

Imagine my delight this morning when I found that out....... Especially since it was £12.00 plus VAT.

The Roadster 100 was originally fitted with an ETL EOF004 filter also replaced with the Ford EFL 600. 

The next picture shows the mounting boss, and you can see from this that the threaded adaptor is interchangeable - which is how they have been able to fit the smaller diameter filter.

You can also see the two water hoses (bottom left) which form a primitive heat exchanger between oil & water,

This is to allow the water to heat up the oil from cold, and presumably take some heat back when the oil is really hot.

Here it is fitted looking forward.

P.S. When fitting the filter, fill it 3/4 with oil before screwing on.

It reduces the time taken to get the pressure back up.

The sump plug is easy to access on the offside..... 15mm socket does the job.

And when you get it off, it looks like this.

Note that the 'integral' sealing washer is a 'rubber' type material and has resealed OK.

I described this to the Ford parts man but the one he sold me is not the right one.

Not my day really, but it doesn't really matter.

Choice of oil is tricky. Morgan recommend 5/40 fully synthetic, but Ford recommend 5/30 FS. Try as I might I couldn't locate a 5/40.

They seem to be 0/40 (eg Mobil 1)so I've plumped for Mobil 1 5/30 this time. Of course, being a 4litre can I ended up buying two..........

Next time I might try their top spec oil for Diesels which does come in the right 5/40 grade.

I know a lubrication & oils professional (from within the MG world), and asked his opinion on tne 0/40 and 5/30 issue. You may be interested to hear his views......

" .......the 40 is thicker than the 30 at the same operating temperature, although if the engine is running hotter than it should the 5/40 will thin to a level equivalent to a 5/30 used in a cooler engine.

So as to Morgan advising 5/40, well that may be the slightly higher running temps in the engine bay of the Morgan as opposed to the Fords. Modern tendencies are towards lower viscosity oils through the use of tighter clearances and use of synthetic base oils. Modern oils have reduced levels of certain additives to protect the CAT.

To be honest I don't think you can go wrong with Mobil1 which can be bought in 0W40 form as well as 5W30. 

I would recommend 0W40 as being better simply because the 0W implies it is thinner at cold start than a 5W or 10W but is a 40 grade at operating temp. 

The 0W will ensure rapid circulation of the oil on start-up. I used it in my KV6 engine for over 100k miles without ill effects, in fact the engine itself was one of the best in terms of fuel economy and no oil usage.

Modern full synthetic formulations have high levels of detergency and with modern electronic engine management, there is no need for diesel oils in modern engines. 

The Mobil1 range is pricey but then again you don't need to change it very often! I used to get 12k miles easily in the ZT on it. 

But if your mileage is less than 5k per year then go with a slightly cheaper full synth product.

I think oil pressure is misunderstood as it is oil flow we need to the bearings at the right viscosity, and pressure is only telling us that we have some pressure but not how much flow. 

Using a thicker oil will slow the flow rate of oil to the bearings yet still show a healthy oil pressure reading! Old engines with clogged arteries will show a high pressure but suffer insufficient flow. 

Bearings don't like oil too thick any more than they don't like it too thin, and both conditions lead to increased heat generation and increased drag on the engine.

Talking to a few experts from Shell and BP, it would appear Mobil1 is still the one to beat, and they suggest that the traditional oil film on which we rely for the bearing protection is how oils used to be developed in order to ensure good bearing clearance. 

But, Mobil1 allows for metal-metal contact as the pressures and heat generate a protective layer by squeezing the oil into a thin solid layer with good anti-wear protection to ensure good engine life. 

This would again prove that this is why we see low pressures at idle with Mobil1". 

Finally a word about antifreeze.

I got some to have in stock, and it comes in 1 litre bottles.

Ford part number is 1336799. It's £5.30 plus VAT and at 50/50 you'll need six litres.

It's Motorcraft Super Plus 2000 spec - WSS97B44D.

That's all for now folks........ 

This weekend (September 2011) I've completed my third service.

Just over 2,000 miles since July 2010 which was the previous service. Here's an abridged summary.........

I decided to go for Mobil1 0-40 this time - sold in five litres, but this is "not quite enough" for a sumpful on a Roadster. 

As mentioned above I went for the Jaguar filter this time. It differs from the Ford EFL600.

The For filter is very slightly shorter, and the oilways are different. The non return diaphragm is also orangey.

The part number on the box is what to ask for although the earlier part number is still on the filter. Ford filters don't have a box.

I don't really have a fixed routine for servicing, it's how the mood takes me.

This time I started with applying vaseline to the bonnet tapes and oiling the locks & hinges with 3 in 1 oil.

Then I start the engine and run it for a few minutes to warm things up.

This is because I don't want a high revving cold start with new oil, when it needs time to circulate.

So if the engine is warm, it will start at a slower idle.

If you take it on the road before dropping the oil, it will be dangerously hot, so I don't do it that way.

I removed the old filter, and filled the new one with clean oil, before refitting "hand tight".

Filling the new filter avoids the engine doing it and significantly reduces the time spent running with no oil feed to the bearings.

At this point when I'd refilled the sump (after replacing the drain plug!) i remembered that five litres isn't enough, so had to turn out to Halfords on Saturday afternoon, fighting through armies of kids and people carriers.

Next was the gearbox. Those plugs are tight. Remove level plug first, then drain. This has been in for two years and again was murky.

Here's another reminder about the oil specified for the Getrag box. It's a very specific requirement but I don't know why:

And here's another reminder about my solution to the problem of the level plug not aligning with the hole.........

Take the carpet out and lay some newspaper on the floor.

You need a funnel and extension pipe, and it gets messy.

There's little room inside the level hole, you can feel a gearwheel just inside.

There isn't much room for pouring either.

Next the rear axle. A slow drainer.........

This oil has been in a year and looks clean, however there were some particles in suspension.

I lowered the car to get the last of it to drain out.

This oil looked much darker in the container.

While that was in progress, I checked the rear brakes and carefully cleaned the dust from inside of the Brake Drums ( Face Mask recommended) 

Remember that there have been a couple of stories of linings detaching from the brake shoes and jamming the brakes.

Mine are still well glued in place.

If you do this and you have wire wheels, don't touch the large slotted screws. The drums are held on with four conventional hex headed setscrews.

The insides were remarkably clean.

Some time ago I added a short piece of hose to provide additional protection between the fuel tank and the brake pipe.

Here you can see the level of movement by the pale shadow on the tank.

This is where the hose is rubbing against the wax rustproofing. 

2017 note - I've now adjusted this so that it doesn't rub!

And finally a reminder of my funnel and tube arrangement for filling:

To do this Differential Oil Filling Job,  Dave has first removed the Tool Tray to gain access.

The Spark Plugs are long life and as I recall are only due for replacement at 30k miles.

The nearside bank is easy to get at - just take the air box off and there they are.

The offside set are tricky, but according to the Mondeo Haynes manual it's fairly straightforward.

I probably won't leave them for 30k miles, but I will be having a go when the fancy takes me - but not yet!!!!

ROADSTER 100 – CAPACITIES
FUEL TANK		UNLEADED		55	LTRS
ENGINE OIL CAPACITY		SAE 5 W 30 FULLY SYNTHETIC		5.71	LTRS
GEARBOX CAPACITY		FS 75 W 90 LODEXOL		1.7	LTRS
REAR AXLE CAPACITY		80 W / 140 SEMI SYNTHETIC		1.7	LTRS
WATER CAPACITY		COOLANT		11	LTRS
ANTIFREEZE		AUTOCRAFT SUPERPLUS 2000		50%
		WSS 97 B44 D		50%
PETROL – UNLEADED		95 / 98 OCTANE		55	LTRS
SPARK PLUGS		MOTOCRAFT AGSF 22 FSCM		1.27 / 1.3	MM

Todays jobs were to check the rear brakes, and bleed the brakes and the clutch. 

Note! The Series 1 Roadster employs a Hydraulic Clutch with its Getrag Gearbox as does the Plus 4 with its MX5 Gearbox.

Plus 4 Servicing

The photos below relate to the Plus 4 Service being explained.

So first I lifted the rear and removed the drums. They came off quite easily.

Sometimes you have to wiggle the handbrake cable, just to get complete release.

It was reassuring to find Coppaslip on the bolt threads, which shows a certain level of thought applied at the last service which you can't take for granted everywhere. (Well done BHM!).

This looks remarkably clean - but I've done nothing to it - this is after quite a lot of bad weather through the year, especially in Scotland. 

The small bolts hold the drums in place. The slotted setscrews can be left in place, they can be removed if you need more wiggle space, but its not necessary.

The inside was reasonably clean, but I cleaned off the dust and tidied it up.

The cylinder is dry, as is the cylinder on the other side.

Once that was out of the way it was time to assemble the bleeding gear.

A selection of containers and a selection of bleed tubes, plus my fluid transfer tool, which is invaluable.

First job was to remove most of the old fluid from the master cylinder using the transfer tool.

This means that I can fill the master cylinder with fresh fluid from the start, and don't have to pump all the old fluid through.

Done carefully, no air gets admitted at this end. That fluid looks pretty good actually. Basic precautions are essential.

Plenty of rags which get thrown away at the end, and never carry anything containing brake fluid over the paintwork - if it drips, it may damage the paint.

 In this photo, the master cylinder cap is tucked away at the top so it can't drip.

I use a small aerosol plastic top to pour new fluid into the master cylinder.

Space is tight and this works a treat.

The bleed nipples are 5/16"AF, and I started furthest away from the Master Cylinder.

What came out of the rear nearside was badly discoloured.

It took 30 strokes before it ran clear.

Fluid should be changed at two years. Many owners don't bother, but this shows clearly why you should - it's only two and a half years old.

The offside took twenty strokes before it ran clear. Less than the nearside because the front to rear pipe had been replenished earlier, so there was less old fluid to purge.

I didn't take a photo of the front brakes being bled, but this photo shows the location of one bleed nipple.

There is another one on the inside edge of the calliper, and an external brake pipe links the two halves of the calliper along the bottom edge.

The calliper nipples are 7/16" AF

First I did the nearside, starting with the outer nipple, so as to purge the external brake pipe.

The fluid was very clean in comparison to the rears. Fifteen strokes to the outer nipple and ten to the inner, with regular master cylinder top ups.

And the same procedure on the offside, before refilling the master cylinder to level and refitting the cap.

With the rear of the car back on the floor, I lifted the front, and diverted into bleeding the clutch.

Using the same approach - first, removing the old fluid from the master cylinder.

The clutch fluid came out in pretty good shape.

The bleed nipple is 5/16"AF. Up to this point I had used 500ml of new fluid.

The whole job took around 750ml.

At this point is was convenient to remove and replace the oil filter, even though it was not on my list for today.

It was tight and needed a chain wrench to start off.

Photo also shows the Plus 4 Clutch Slave Cylinder

The filter on the car was a FIL ZP507A - not a brand I'm familiar with, and hard to track down on the internet for a cross reference.

To cut a long story short I obtained a K&N PS1002, which I have fitted this time.

But I also paid a visit to my local Ford Dealer to find out what the standard Ford filter is.

It's always a lot of fun doing this, because the parts counter works on Reg numbers, but not when you have a Morgan, and the engine number is no use.

They have also stopped using the EFL numbers which old blokes like me know about.

So here are all three, in a row for your information, and you can see the Ford part number.

The handbook lists one option as synthetic 5W 40 and the oil cap suggests Castrol, so..........

I always fill the filter before refitting so as to minimise the delay in building oil pressure.

Finally I decided to replace the engine oil today. The plug is 13mm.

It came out black............................

Finally, use a funnel to avoid spillage and recheck the level after running the engine up to temp.

The yellow funnel is a coincidence, honest.

All that remains to do now is the gearbox and axle oils...........

So today I set about the gearbox and axle............
Remember - always do the level plug first.

The gearbox level plug looks like something on an old BL car.
Or something FROM an old BL car. 

So In order to crack this off, I dug out my trusty, but ageing tool.

Once loosened it will take a 14mm open ender.

The drain plug is very different. 15/16"AF of all things.

Both were skimmed with what looked like red Hermatite.

Although the handbook states - filled for life, I don't really subscribe to this approach.

A 2 litre ice cream tub is ideal for the 1.7L capacity, and can be disposed of at the end.

Here's the drain plug after being cleaned.

And here's the strange size - not metric.

The recommended grade of gearbox oil.

This is what came out - not as black as it looks.

This is my home made filler spout in place.

I use a 1 Litre ice cream tub for filling - in 500mil sessions so I can estimate quite well when the gearbox will be full.

Because the gearbox is angled over to the nearside at about 15 degrees, I lifted that side of the car when filling to get the right level.

Don't forget the prop shaft UJ's.

If you recall I enlarged the slot between floorboards earlier in the year to gain access to the front UJ.

They don't need much grease, and not very often either.

More to follow..........

Next the axle, but first the handbrake.

After reading this month's Miscellany, where there is a feature on a broken handbrake cable - I checked to see if my outer sheath had cracked, and on the offside it has.

With rusty stains evident.

So it's only a matter of time before the cable either sticks or breaks on that side.

So I removed the two fixings.......

And this allows 3 in 1 oil to be dribbled down the inner cables.

It won't do much good but might help a bit!

The axle level plug isn't like the S1 Roadster, which is a large bolt head, it's a 10mm Allen Key and access is very very tight up against the tank.

The drain plug is the bottom bolt and is 15mm (or 19/32"AF).

The oil looks a funny colour here but it wasn't green or grey.

It wasn't as black as it looks here either!

I had some semi-synthetic gear oil left over from my first Roadster oil change, so I've used this with a slosh of friction modifier.

The Roadster handbook was not exactly accurate, and since then I've used fully synthetic (after checking things out). This will do the job.

The usual tried & tested fill method - the rear has to be lowered to get the right level, before replacing the level plug.

Again, both plugs were smeared with red Hermatite.

I'm not fan of sealers on transmissions, but decided to use blue non setting sealer (was called Hylomar - but not sure if that name is still around).

All done, but ready for a thorough wipe down.

It's a very messy job, and consumes vast amounts of rubber gloves and rags, and containers. But well worth doing. thumbs.

The final job is to replace the tool tray and then give the inside a thorough clean - lots of oily finger marks.......