Remote Greasing of Front Suspension

Fitting my Remote Greasing Kit - By Frank Lomax  

23rd March 2012

This modification applies to cars which have grease nipples on the TOP and Bottom

of the front Suspension --i.e. those cars fitted with a steering bearing as STANDARD

The job was straight forward following the instructions supplied from The Nipple Shop. 

1. The hardest part was removing the wheel spinners following the recent service.

My MG spanner would not move them so I had to use the Rubber Mallet for the first time.

It was easier than I thought.  

I raised the off side first and positioned the Axle Prop under the cross frame.

I then removed the wheel and placed the empty Nipple Shop Bag over the thread to keep it and me clean.

You will probably lean against the Hub Shaft at some time during the fitting process.

2. I removed the Top and Bottom Grease Nipples and replace them with the equivalent 90% elbow pipe fitting from each Kit. 

This was easy to do. 

The top nipple has the largest thread making unscrewing and re screwing of that one quite quite tough.

It has been suggested that we fit a Spring or Star Washer to each new elbow fitting (Not provided with the kits).

Re use the star washer from the smallest (lower) nipple on the new 90% fitting.

Follow the angles in the photos as they provide the correct tube locations.

3. To provide enough space to re attach the bottom 90% block into the lower nipple position,

 it is essential first to release the damper's lower nut and to ease the damper out of the way using a lever.

This was quite difficult as everything is 'factory tight'.

Once the damper is out of the way, I still needed to remove the pipe fitting nut and this provided enough clearance for this piece to make the complete 360% rotations needed to fasten it in place.

I re connected the Damper as the last job before re attaching the wheel.

4. Next, I marked up the hole positions needed to secure the Engine Bay Greasing Blocks, using one hole already there in the plate.

This was found just below the Front Bonnet Catch Hook.

I used this hole as the locator while I marked the location of the second hole.

I then drilled the second hole one drill size bigger than the 6mm bolt.

The Stainless Steel panel there is not that thick so was easy to drill through.

Due to difficulty of access, I found it easier to drill the offside hole from inside the engine bay and the nearside one from under the wheel arch.

5. I assembled each Engine Bay Block away from the car while screwing in the two angled nipples and the lower pipe fittings.

I did this while holding the block in a bench vice as the threads on all 4 parts are very tight.

One of the Two Assemble Engine Bay Blocks

I tested the best angle required for the new Grease Nipples with my own Grease Gun.

I found that pointing both Nipples towards the front of the car, and along the line of the block, was the best angle for me.

6. Before fitting this assembled block to the engine bay, I threaded both plastic tubes through to the wheel arches from inside the engine bay.

This was achieved using the large gap in front of the cross frame where it passes through each side panel.

As none of the photos indicated the exact routing used, it became trial and error.

The rigidity of the plastic tubes forces you to find and keep a smooth curve without any unnatural bends.

I found the best route to use, after entering the wheel arch, was to lift both tubes back over the top of the cross frame.

7. I tried to avoid making a mistake by pre cutting the plastic tube lengths. 

I first fitted both plastic tubes supplied into the First Engine Bay Block before fitting the block to the car.

Following assembly it would allow me to measure the required tube lengths when it was in the car and only then. 

I cut off the excess length of tube using a sharp 'Stanley' knife.

Both Excess Lengths are then still long enough to repeat the whole process on the second side.

The Tubes are forming Natural Curves

8. Having cut both tubes to length, I final fixed the Engine Bay Blocks in place securely.

I could now attach my grease gun to both nipples and pump grease through them to fully fill the plastic tubes, priming them before connecting the pipe ends to each of the lower Angle Blocks.

The Angle of the Lower Block may need adjusting to suit the Tube's Natural Line.

9. The last operation is to fit the tubes to the 90% Elbow connection points ensuring that the tube ends are kept well inserted while the nuts are tightened onto the pressure rings.

10. I then decided to secure the plastic tubes to the top of the cross frame using Cable Ties, one inside the car and one under the wheel arch.

Once secure I then pumped in grease twice into both nipples and checked for excess used grease exiting from under the swivel block at the base of the top spring.

I have top and bottom gaiters fitted to my R100 but any excess grease still needs to be kept away from the brakes. 

11. All that is left to do now is to re tighten the nut to re fix the damper in position, clean and replace the wheel and to fit the red & blue protective caps to the new nipples.

12. Now - Repeat the whole process for the nearside. 

............................................................

The Remote Greasing Kit Supplier

HARRISON LUBRICATION ENGINEERING LTD.

The NippleShop
Harrison Lubrication Engineering Limited
Lynstock Way
Lostock
Bolton BL6 4SA
United Kingdom
t. 01204 691352

Web Site : www.thenippleshop.co.uk

Installing Morgan Front Suspension Remote Lubrication Points - 

The Kit Location : https://shop.hle.co.uk/inaccessible-lubrication-kits.html

The Link to Download the Fitting Instructions PDF: 

https://shop.hle.co.uk/downloadable/download/sample/sample_id/2/

Kits – NS9000MOG for bottom grease points (both sides) - £20.00

NS9024MOG for the top grease points (both sides) - £20.00

The Cost for each Upper and Lower Kit is - £20.00 plus VAT & Postage

(Prices as at 9th March 2012 are the same in 2019)

NOT included in the kits are M6 nuts and washers needed for fitting the Engine Bay Blocks to the inner wings.

Note: The kits are for current models of Morgan Car (and are suitable for all Roadster 100's .)

If the grease nipple sizes are different on your model for any reason then replacement fittings can be obtained.

(1) The parts in the above packs are identical apart from the 90deg joints used to replace the original nipples.

Therefore, keep these with their respective packs for identification. (The top and bottom 90deg joints have different thread sizes).

Assemble the block as per the photograph (2)

(2) - The new remote nipples are 45deg and have been tightened at an angle to give the best access for the grease gun.

Remove the front wheels.

The semi-rigid pipes from the grease points to the remote blocks can be routed under the inner wings.

Decide on a suitable position for the blocks on the inner wings to allow for the routing of the pipes.

(3) Mark the position and drill the inner wings. Only fit the blocks loosely at this stage until the pipes have been attached.

Measure the length of pipe required for both the top and bottom points to the blocks.

Fit the pipes to the blocks by first sliding on the nut and pressure joint onto the pipes.

Once tightened the block bolts may also be tightened onto the wing.

Remove the bottom grease nipple. Loosen the bottom shock absorber nut to enable the 90deg greasing joint to be screwed in.

Tighten the shock absorber nut but DO NOT fit the pipe to the joint at this stage as it needs to be primed with grease first.

Remove the top grease nipple and replace with the 90deg joint.

Carefully pump grease into the remote nipples until grease is seen coming out of the pipes.

Attach the nuts and fit to the joints.

Check that all nuts have been correctly tightened.

Re-fit the Road Wheel.

Job done.

....................................................................

PTC Sep.2011

Morgan Owner Robbie Symes' installation comments

 (It was Robbie who designed the Kits along with the Nipple Shop Team).

Folks,
After 6 years scrabbling around on the garage floor every time I wanted to grease the front suspension, I decided that enough was enough.

I had heard from my dealer, Newtown Motors Cwmbran, that a customer had moved to remote greasing, and was put in touch with Haydn Croll who very kindly sent me some photos and a list of parts he had obtained from a shop in Wales.

Unfortunately the parts he used were from a supplier I could not use here in Ireland so I went in search of alternatives.

A further issue was that I wasn't certain of the thread sizes of the grease nipples on my car and Haydn (Who obviously has more real skills than I) had altered bits to fit the parts he got.

So I phoned the factory and after some head scratching they said the sizes were 1/8BSP at the top and 1/8BSF at the bottom.

After some searching on the net, I found that the aptly named "The Nipple Shop" had kits for remote bearing greasing and that M6x1 would fit 1/8BSF.

The kits had some parts I wouldn't need, but I purchased them nonetheless.

Fitting was pretty simple once I realised that the lower shock absorber needed to be loosened off so that the elbow fitting could be screwed in to the bottom grease point. 

It is pretty simple to remove the grease nipples at both the top of the suspension and from the stub axel.

Then you insert the "Elbow" fittings in their place and attach the semi-rigid piping -- not too tight at this juncture as you will later need to undo it at the "Elbow to check the pipe is full of grease.

I fitted the "Anchor Block" to the inside of the inner wing and threaded the piping in to mate up. 

The Straight connector is screwed into the bottom of the "Anchor Block" and the 45Deg grease nipple into the top with the nipple angled out from the inner wing.

I used one of the unused holes in the inner wing for one of the cap bolts and drilled the wing for the other.

Bolt tight with a flat washer and a spring washer and M6 nut. 

Now remove the pipe from the Elbow fittings and attach the grease gun to the nipples on the top of the "Anchor Block".

Pump until Grease is seen at the end of the pipe.

Now attach the pipe firmly to the elbow fitting and "Bob's your Uncle"

Following this I have arranged with "The Nipple Shop" that they will sell kits of parts specifically for the Morgan

These will cater for all post 2002 trads (At least the factory said that all such cars have the same threads for the grease points!!) at reduced cost from the original kits with the Part No.s

NS 9000Mog(Stub Axel) and NS9024Mog (Top of suspension)

These kits comprise all you will need to complete the job and are detailed in the attached Document.

Photos of the fittings and where located on my car are at

http://www.pbase.com/rsyme/remote_greasing_front_suspension

It is a worthwhile modification in my opinion and not difficult to do (Well, I managed it!!!!!!!!)

The Nipple Shop are really good to deal with and the parts are very good quality.

For the Top of the Suspension (Both Sides) 
kit no NS9024MOG - £20 plus Vat & Carriage

Description Part No. Number required
Anchor Block AB2 1
M6x1 cap head screws 30mm long M6CS-30 2
45 deg Grease nipple H2-2BP 2
Plastic Cover for nipples RED H/P/C-R 2
Semi- Rigid Tubing HPP6-1.5 2M
Male Stud Elbow 6mm odx1/8bspt ECM6-LLR1/8 2
Male Stud Connector 6mm odx1/8bsp SCM6-LLR1/8 2

For the Bottom of the Suspension (Both Sides) 
kit no NS9000MOG - £20 plus Vat & Carriage

Description Part No. Number required
Anchor Block AB2 1
M6x1 cap head screws 30mm long M6CS-30 2
45 deg Grease nipple H2-2BP 2
Plastic Cover for nipples BLUE H/P/C-B 2
Semi- Rigid Tubing HPP6-1.5 2M
Male Stud Elbow 6mm odxM6x1 ECM6-LLM6x1 2
Male Stud Connector 6mm odx1/8bsp SCM6-LLR1/8 2

NOTE !
You’ll also need 2 of M6 Nuts plus flat and spring washers to use with the M6 Capscrew to fix the anchor Block to the inner wing.

These are NOT in the kit