Enhancing the Cobra High Level Brake Lamp.

 Enhancing the Cobra High Level Brake Lamp.

By David Owens.

When I spotted this photo, posted on an internet topic, I noticed that the Cobra High Level Brake Lamp on the nearest Morgan  appears to have a Chrome Bezel in the lamp.

Cobra Lamp with Chrome Bezel

Checking through all of my Photos I thought that this brand new Roadster 100 see at the factory also had a Chrome Bezel? 

On closer inspection it is just the sun reflecting on the paintwork.

 

New Roadster 100 Seen at The Morgan Factory

Checking my own Cobra Lamp I initially thought that my Bezel must have fallen off?

No. It appears that no other Morgan Cobras have Chrome Bezels.

My Cobra & Lamp Before Modification.

I shared this Topic with our Register Membership and David Owens became very interested and immediately began a search for a replacement alternative Brake Lamp with a Chrome Bezel.

David, being more curious than me, decided to dismantle his own Cobra Lamp and discovered that hidden within the Plastic Lamp Casing is a Chrome Rim which is part of the exiting lamp.

The Following Report takes us through the Method David used, and I have also followed, to achieve a Chrome Bezel effect on our Cobra High Level Break Lamps.

The Modification Method

1. Remove the car's Baggage Rack and The Spare Wheel - Tool Required - 2 x 13mm spanners.

2. Disconnect the Cobra Lamp Units power cable at the junction block - Lift the securing tab and separate.

3. Remove the plastic screw protector (Missing on my car) and remove the nut securing the cable clip at the base of the light stem. - Tools Required - 8mm spanner.

4. Remove the four wood screws that hold the Cobra Stem on to the wood frame of the car. - Tools Required - Phillips screwdriver.

Four Woodscrews Attaching The Cobra to the Car.

Remove the Cobra unit to the bench onto a soft surface to protect the paintwork.

The Red Lamp Lense showing the Rubber Surround & Fibre Screw Retaining Washers

5. Remove the Red Light Lens Cover taking care not to lose the crew retaining washers - Tools Required - Philips screwdriver.

The Bulb and its Separate Bulb Holder with Two Securing Screws.

6. Remove the Bulb for safety and then Remove the Top & Bottom Bulb Holder screws - Tools Required - Philips Screwdriver. 

Move the Bulb Holder to one side exposing the Lamp to Cobra fixing Screw in the base of the lamp.

The Chromed Plastic Light Housing showing its Single Fixing Countersunk Bolt in the Base.

7. Unscrew the 6mm Screw ( Bolt on David's Car ) releasing the Light Housing from the Cobra Stem Casting - Tools Required - ( Alan Key on David's - Philips screwdriver on mine)

The Base of the Light Housing Seen Inside the Cobra Casting.

The Gap Between Light Holder & Cobra Housing.

8. Insert the blade of a Screwdriver between the Light Housing and the Cobra Housing and Very Gently Lever Upwards to remove the Light Housing. 

Be careful as the Light Housing is made of Chromed Plastic. 

It does not take a lot of gentle pressure to free off the Tapered Joint.

The Chromed Plastic Light Holder Temporarily Removed from The Cobra.

9. A Spacer needs to be inserted Between the Base of the Light Housing and The Cobra Housing to push forward the Light Housing and expose a ring of Chromed Plastic. 

The depth of Spacer will determine the width of the Chrome Ring. This spacer should be 10mm to be in line with the other rear lamps.

David originally used a Metal Spacer with a 6mm Hole drilled in the center but has since replaced this with a far better option being a Firm Rubber Spacer fabricated from a Demijohn Bung. 

David's Rubber Spacer Fabricated from a Demijohn Bung.

I have fabricated a spacer from Softer Cork but will also seek out a similar Firm Rubber material from which to make my own Spacer.

My Champagne Cork Supply.

Drilling the Hole in the Center of my Cork

Cutting the 10mm Spacer Depth.

9a. Because of the Extra Depth of the 10mm Spacer, the Original 15mm Tapered Bolt is now too short so a replacement 25mm Countersunk Stainless Steel Bolt is required. 

I happened to already have a couple of extra long Countersunk Bolts, so set about to reduce its length. 

The 8mm Nut from the Cable Clamp was a useful aid to this process.  

Setting the Nut at 25mm ready for cutting off the excess thread.

 When the nut is removed after cleaning the sawn end it will re cut the entry part of the sawn thread.

Cutting the Bolt.

Filing the Cut End with the Nut Still in Place.

Using the Nut to Lift the Burr.

Finishing the Cut Using Emery Cloth.

My Cork Spacer Layout.

a) Light Holder

b) Bolt

c) Large Washer (to sit over the Small Extension on The Base of the Light Holder).

d) Cork Spacer.

e) Small Washer (to Bed into the Cork Spacer). 

Assembling the Pieces Ready for Fitting.

Ensure that the Light Housing is Re Inserted with the Cable Exit Visible as seen in this Photo

The Assembly Bolted back into The Cobra.

For Ease of Assembly hold the Light Fitting Vertically with your Finger holding the Bolt upright from Inside. 

This is so that the Washers & Spacer can't fall off of the Bolt. 

Lower the Cobra Housing onto the Bolt ready for Screwing together using, in my case, the Philips Screwdriver ensuring not to Overtighten and Break the Plastic Holder.  

10. Re Assemble the Bulb Holder into the Light Holder with the Two Screws ensuring that the Bulb Holder is in the Vertical location as the photo.

The 10mm Chrome Bezel Achieved.

As a personal enhancement I have covered the Cable in its slot using Black Gorilla Tape.

While the Spare Wheel is out, Here is a photo of the 'Y' Splitter I had made which fits into the Cobra Cable Joint.

This provides an extra powered side cable with identical Sockets needed to facilitate the attachment of my Suitcase Strap High Level Break Lamp Cable. 

Simple and Effective.

Also, When I replaced my two Lower Cobra Wood Screws I inserted this 3mm Perspex Spacer to slightly 'Lift' the Cobra Top allowing me to slide the Spare Wheel back in easily.

Before this, the jamming of the Spare Wheel under The Cobra strained and loosened the original screws. 

The Reassembled Cobra with My Spare Wheel Fitted.

The Vertical Location of the Spare Wheel is determined by the Centre Bolt.

Maybe, with my New & Tightened Top Screws, the Spacer Thickness needs to be Reduced to bring the Cobra into the Tyre once more?

Frank

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