I've done this job twice before. First on my Roadster when I changed the kingpins way back........scroll right to the end to get the reposted images!
Then I did it again when I changed the kingpins on my 4/4 Anniversary........and got better at it!!!! Scroll right to the end to get the reposted images!
This time it would be a breeze, as the kingpins are OK!!!!!!
The order I do this in, after jacking up and securing safely is...........
The order I do this in, after jacking up and securing safely is...........
Remove two caliper securing bolts.....19mm, and hang caliper from frame using a cable tie. I leave the pads in place, they don't go anywhere.
Remove the disc and hub......first straighten the split pin, and remove through the hole in the splines. Remove the nut.....which is 1 & 3/16ths AF.........
This time I put a rubber glove over the hub splines, which worked very well. The stamped washer and outer race usually fall out of the hub at this point and the glove keeps them clean.
Remove the damper. Upper nut is 17mm. The damper shaft has either an Allen key (female) or a male 'slot'. The Spax have a 3/16" male slot which takes an open ender. The damper lower nut is 14mm. Each fixing has the usual washers and rubber bushes.
The track rod end is a 14mm, and I use a simple splitter which does the job easily.
The lower plate fasteners are 1/2" AF and the lower kingpin nut is 3/4" AF.
So.....................
My gaiters have kept everything clean down here................
The factory bearing is black and just below centre here........
The hub nut with factory red paint evident........
The components are not painted from new, it's like a passive layer of rust..........
I don't go to too much trouble, just rub off the powdery stuff, and apply ....this time....caliper paint.
I don't go to too much trouble, just rub off the powdery stuff, and apply ....this time....caliper paint.
Then I get the studding out and start to wind down the springs...........
With everything out of the way, I give a good squirt of Tectyl 506 into the cross tubes.
Mulfab bearing on the left, Factory on the right.
I also took the opportunity to fit Cain's (Wolf) lower bearings at the same time.
Everything cleaned up and painted.............
Back together........
The Mulfab bearing in place..........
On the offside, I'd noticed that the wheel bearing was flinging small amounts of grease onto the inner face of the disc.
I suspect that the bearing may have run hot from new and liquefied the grease, as it was a bit odd looking inside.
Here you can see the mess on the inside of the hub............
The close proximity of the speedo sensor has marked the grease............
The stub axle was messy.
But cleaned up quite well..........after a degrease!
Back together.......
46 miles completed today. The difference backing out of the garage was immediately obvious. At low speed the steering is much lighter.
Not so noticeable at higher speeds, but definitely worth doing!
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1, Did you notice any increase in wheel vibration (Morgan Dance) after the mod?
2, Can I see tyre rub marks towards the bottom of your reaction stay in the last photo?
No increase in vibration. This car has a very slight shimmy which phases in and out. I suspect it's wheel balance but is so slight I can live with it.
The tyres just touch the bottom two inches of the reaction bars on full lock.
I've squeezed the bottom of the bars oval and gained 2mm but i would rather they didn't so I'll be taking them off again shortly for further work.
I've also raised the reaction bars by 3mm and all that has almost provided clearance.
It's said that Morgans have a concession for the MOT in this respect and if so it must be relating to the age of the chassis design which predates MOT regs. Keith at BHM is absolute about that.
I have 185/70's on 4/4 wheels, which have the greatest inset of all the wires so least clearance to the cross-head and reaction bars.
My Roadster wheels don't come close to the chassis or reaction bars. There's a finger width gap.
I do have a fall back position in that I have a set of rollers in stock and if necessary I'll fit them!
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