Monday, 29 March 2021

Information on Morgan Roadster / Ford MT-75 Gearboxes

Ford MT-75 Gearbox
 Introduction. 

As found in a Ford Sierra and the Morgan 4/4 featured below

The Morgan / Ford MT-75 Gear Linkage of a Roadster 100
 
....................................................
I may be wrong but I don't know of anyone changing their gearbox on a R100, so far. 

 Our Series 2 Roadster engines were as used transverse in the Ford Mondeo and are different to the version used in the Series 1 Roadsters . 

Roadster 100 Vin No. H29 100 4379



An alternative view of the MT-75 Roadster 100 Gearbox

 I believe that the series 1 Roadsters employed a Ford Type 9 Gearbox

A Ford Type 9 Gearbox

The later 3.7 Mustang engined Roadsters, have a Getrag MT-82 Gearbox

Getrag MT-82 Gearbox 

The Mazda MX5 Gearbox is used in later Morgan 4/4 and Plus 4 Duratec Engined cars

The Mazda MX5 Gearbox
.................................

 Talk Morgan Roadster Guru Dave Wellings did a study of Morgan Gearboxes and if I can find a copy I will post it. 

 Some Morgan owners change their gearing performances by modifying the ratio of the Rear Axle  Differential. 

Having a Limited Slip Differential on our Roadster 100 cars, I am not sure what alternative final drive ratio's, if any, are available for them but I believe that changing the ratio could provide the effect of higher gearbox ratios across all of the gears. 

It could be worth speaking with Billy Bellinger of JB Sports Engineering. Billy not only races Morgans himself but maintains some of the Top Performance Morgan Racing Cars for Champion owner/driver Keith Ahlers, owner of TOK 258 and many others. 

Keith Ahlers & Billy Bellinger 
...............................................

 For Gearbox Performance Comparison Information with the Mazda MX5 Gearboxes, it may be worth having a word with Vitesse, the people who supply Mazda Gearboxes for other Morgan Models and seem to be experts. 

Morgan Gearbox - New Gearbox for Classic Morgans  from Vitesse 

 Brand New MX-5 gearbox Developed In House for Morgan. 
Call for a Quote or Buy Online. 
New MX-5 gearbox for Morgan. 
Bring your Classic Morgan back to life! 
Suitable For Morgans. 
Brand New Mazda Gearbox. 

50 Yrs Experience. Fitting Service Available. 
..............................................

 A Note from Dave Wellings which seems to confirm that the Ford MT-75 Gearbox was used on our cars. 

 Here's a tricky question, which even the internet is struggling to answer. 
It seems that the following Morgans used the MT-75 Ford Gearbox: (My start date is 1997). 
 
4/4 to 2008 
Plus 4 2004 - 2013 
Roadster S2 2007 - 2010 
(including our Roadster 100's) 
 Roadster S3 2010 - 2012 
 There are multiple ratios available in some of the gears, as follows: 
MX5 numbers in ( ) for comparison). 
 1st is either 3.89 or 3.61:1............. (MX5 is 3.14:1) 
2nd is always 2.08:1 ......................(MX5 is 1.89:1) 
3rd is 1.34, 1.36, or 1.44:1 ........... (MX5 is 1.33:1) 
4th is always 1:1 
5th is 0.76, 0.82, or 0.83:1............ (MX5 is 0.81:1) 

 It would be nice to get this right in my technical data, but it is proving difficult. 
...................................

The Roadster 100 Gear Ratios as printed in the Certificate of Conformity issued by the factory with our Roadster 100 Series No. 015

Note 28. confirms that the Gearbox is MT75
Note 29. states the Gear Ratios as:
 1st Gear is 3.87 : 1
2nd Gear is 2.08 : 1
3rd Gear is 1.36 : 1
4th Gear is 1.00 : 1
5th Gear is 0.76 ; 1

Note 30. lists the Final Drive Ratio as 3.73 :1
..................................................
Frank.
....................................................

Information from a Talk Morgan Member.

The MT-75 is a rear wheel drive gearbox made by Ford. It has five speeds and reverse. 

It replaced the Ford Type 9 & Type 5 Gearboxes used in the Series 1 Morgan Roadsters and other Ford Models 





....................................................................................


Information from Super 7 Heaven

     MT75 Gearbox

The MT75, 5 speed gearbox was designed by Ford to replace the T5. 

It is a rear wheel drive (rwd) 5 speed gearbox that has synchromesh on all gears including reverse, meaning reverse can be selected whilst the car is travelling forward up to 25mph. 

The MT75 comes in many guises. 

There are a bewildering array of bellhousing configurations, main shaft lengths, clutch's / flywheels, gear ratio sets, gear-level positions, propshaft fitments and even two different 4×4 versions.

 Although only rated by Ford at 220Nm (torque) many have been used in Kit Cars and Hot Rods with substantially more.

The gearbox casing is all aluminium and due to the integral bellhousing, swapping gearboxes between different models with different engines can be a very complex and involved job best left to the professionals. 

Certainly not a 30 minute, quick ‘in and out’ job.

Even the 2.0 pinto and the 2.0 Cosworth (essentially the same block) have different bellhousing patterns. 

Often, getting a gearbox to bolt up and work may require several donor gearboxes to be dismantled for parts. 

Most swaps can be done, but as parts are getting more rare and expensive, ‘patience’ might also be on your shopping list.

   The MT75 gearbox was fitted to several cars and vans:

  • Ford Sierra Cosworth 2wd (Pinto derived Cosworth 16v)
  • Ford Sierra (2.0 DOHC)
  • Ford Sierra xr4i (Cologne v6)
  • Ford Granada (2.0 DOHC)
  • Ford Granada (Cologne v6)
  • Ford Scorpio (Cologne v6)
  • Ford Ultima (Cologne v6)
  • Ford Transit van
  • Ford Transit van 350 (Duratorq 2.4 v6)
  • LDV 350 van (Duratorq 2.4 v6)


The Ford Sierra 2.0 DOHC bolt pattern is shown in the drawing below. It is very similar to the 2.0 Cosworth MT75 but has less bolts and the starter motor is in a different position.There are several bellhousings, input shaft lengths, gear lever positions, flywheel are different etc.

As you can see there are a number of bellhousings:



Sierra Cosworth 2.0 litre MT75 Bellhousing



Sierra Cosworth 2.0 litre MT75 Bellhousing Bolt Pattern


Sierra 2.0 DOHC MT75 Gearbox Bellhousing

Although the top bolt pattern is similar to the 2litre Cosworth Bellhousing the bottom bolt pattern is different.



MT75 Dimensions


Transit / LDV 350 2.4 litre Duratorq MT75


The Transit LT350 2.4 diesel Gearbox is available with 3 and 4 bolt propshaft flanges.


Transit 2.5 Di Diesel MT75 Gearbox Bellhousing


Others

I’m not sure what this one is but it is an MT75.

From the Bellhousing it looks like a V6 and from the gear level position it looks like a Transit. 

The clutch lever suggests it is Left hand drive.

I know they produced a couple V6 ambulances, so maybe it’s something similar?


MT75 Gearbox Exploded Diagram


Pre 1996 Gears



1996 to 1998 Gears


April 1998 Onwards Gears

MT75 Selector


Then there is also the:

  • 2.0 DOHC Transit (similar bolt pattern to the DOHC Sierra but with a different gear lever arrangement).

   There are also different length main shafts, different clutch     and flywheels etc.

     MT75 Repair Manual


MT75 Cross Section

  1. Drive shaft
  2. Front gear housing (clutch housing)
  3. Rear gear housing
  4. Selector shaft
  5. Shift Rod – external
  6. Gear lever
  7. Crossbar switch
  8. Drive flange
  9. Main shaft with gear wheels, bearings and synchroniser
  10. Counter-shaft gear assembly

    • The front gear case and clutch housing.
    •  
  • The gearbox housing is made of Aluminium and consists of two halves. 
  •  
  •   The rear gear case.

The usual gear extension does not apply to this transmission. 

This had a weight saving of approximately 7.0 kg and reduced the entire length.

The transmission was improved by the following measures:

  • Increased synchronisation
  • Shorter shifting travel
  • New gear lever guide
  • Needle-mounted gear wheels
  • Two ball sleeve-mounted shift shaft
  • High quality gear oils

Gear ratios were tuned to provide good performance and economy. 

By changing from 4th to 5th engine speed can reduce engine speed by 1000rpm. 

When this gearbox came out 4 speed was norm, 5 gears reduce engine emissions, noise and wear.

  • All gears are hardened to substaintially improve the smoothness of the transmission.
  • The reverse gear is synchronised.
  • All gear wheels are mounted on needle bearings.

All of these help to optimise the ride quality and driving comfort.

Comparison of MT75 and Type 9 Gearboxes
 

Ford MT 75 5-speed manual transmission

Previous 5-speed manual transmission (Type 9)
Maximum Torque
300 Nm – 221 ft/lbs
220 Nm -162 ft/lbs
Weight
35,0 kg
42,0 kg
Transmission length
638 mm
772 mm
Gear wheels (all)Needle bearingno needle bearings
Gears2-piece weldedone-piece
Reverse gearsynchronizednot synchronized
Clutch and gearboxTwo-piece die-cast aluminum Gear extension is not necessary.Three-piece cast iron.Gearbox extension of die-cast aluminum
Oil Capacity1.2 Liter1.9 Liter



The MT 75 transmission consists of two halves, 

The front transmission housing or clutch housing and the rear gear housing.

Front gear housing
  1. Roller bearings – countershaft
  2. Ball Bearings – Drive Shaft
  3. Bore – selector shaft
  4. Radial ball bearings – shift shaft
  5. Ventilation hole
  6. Circlip

The front gear box features three bearings

  • The ball bearing for guiding the drive shaft
  • The roller bearings for the countershaft
  • The ball sleeve bearing for the selector shaft

The drive shaft ball bearings are sealed with an oil seal in the guide sleeve. 

The thread of the guide sleeve within gear housing is sealed with an O-ring seal.

The roller bearing and the bearing bracket from the transmission are also sealed with an O-ring seal. 

The selector shaft has a ball sleeve bearing in the front gearbox.

The bore-selector shaft has a ventilation hole for the shift shaft.

All bearings in the front housing are replaceable.

To adapt to the different engine options and for left-and right-hand drive vehicles, different front gear housings are available.

Note:

  • The drive shaft ball bearings must point to the inside cover of the transmission housing.

  • The countershaft roller bearing are paired (inner and outer ring) and thus must be from one manufacturer.



Rear Gear Housing

  1. Rear gear housing
  2. Ball bearings – main shaft
  3. Plate – ball bearings / main shaft
  4. Fastening screws for mounting plate (3 pieces)
  5. Locking – circuit (rotation)
  6. Radial ball bearings – shift shaft
  7. Radial Seal – selector shaft
  8. Radial sealing ring – main shaft
  9. Roller bearings – countershaft
  • There are three bearings in the rear housing:

  • Main shaft ball bearing
  • Countershaft roller bearings.
  • Ball sleeve bearing for the selector shaft.

The countershaft ball bearings are pressed into the rear gearbox.

The ball sleeve bearing and the selector shaft is sealed by a radial seal at the rear gearbox.

The main shaft is sealed with a radial sealing ring.

The locking pin in the rear transmission housing is used to prevent rotation of the selector mechanism.

All bearings and radial seals are replaceable.

Note:

The main shaft ball bearing must point to the inside cover of the transmission housing.

The roller bearings (inner and outer bearing) for the reduction gearing must be from one manufacturer.

Gearbox Attachments


The two halves of the transmission casing are held together by 10 bolts. 

Two guide pins center the two gearbox halves. 

The switch for the reversing lights is attached to the front gearbox housing. 

The switch is actuated by a selector shaft pin.

The figure shows important attachments and 

fixtures

                                      MT75 Gearbox Attachments 


  1. Gear
  2. Lock – selector shaft
  3. Switch – Reversing lamps
  4. Locking screw – lock plate with gear ventilation
  5. Housing bolts (10)
  6. Fixing shift gate
  7. Crossbar switch
  8. Mounting – Shifters
  9. Mounting hole (connection for taximeter, if fitted)
  10. Fixing switching Traverse
  11. Oil drain plug
  12. Fixing reverse – idler
  13. Guide pin
  14. Oil filler plug

Ventilation

There is a ventilation air hole in the locking screw for the locking plate.

When repairing, ensure that the vent is free of dirt and debris. 

A clogged transmission vent can create unwanted pressure. 

A blocked vent will result in Oil leaks, spills and lack lubricant.


  1. Front gear housing.
  2. Locking screw with Ventilation hole.
  3. Rear gear housing.
Gear Shift

1. Shift knob – wiring


  1. Sleeve – reverse lock
  2. Gear lever
  3. Draw – reverse lock

The shifter is a complete unit and in the case of failure must be completely replaced.

The shifter is not the usually fixed to the gear extension, but onto the control beam, which is attached to the gear housing.

                          MT75 Gear Lever


Gear Lever

Gears are selected using the shift lever, the outer plate and inner shift shaft. The reverse gear is synchronized. 

The reverse gear can be selected only in the neutral position and by pulling up the reverse lock on the gear lever. 

The forward gears are selected in the usual manner.








  1. Gaitor
  2. Spring
  3. Draw – reverse lock
  4. Shift Rod – external

External Selection Assembly

The outer transmission circuit consists essentially of the gear lever, the arm and the switching beam. 

A setting of the shift rod is not provided. 

The switching beam is fixed at four points on the rear gear housing. Sleeve – reverse lock

To remove the transmission, the gear shift lever is removed.

  1. Gear lever
  2. Rod (outside)
  3. Gaitor
  4. Cross member
  5. Gaitor
  6. Selector shaft oil seal
  7. Selector shaft (s)
  8. Rear gear housing
  9. Rubber block
MT75 Internal Selection Assembly
  1. Main selector shaft
  2. Shift fork 3 / 4 Gear
  3. Radial ball bearings (8 pieces)
  4. In addition to selector shaft
  5. Shift fork 1 / 2 Gear
  6. Shift fork 5 and reverse
  7. Contact pin holder
  8. Spring support
  9. Radial seal
  10. Circlip
  11. Spring plate
  12. Spring
  13. Reverse lock
  14. Shift gate
  15. Locking plate
  16. Switching finger
  17. Switch – Reversing lamps
  18. Actuating pin – reverse light switch
  19. Shift shaft lock

The internal selection assembly consists essentially of the shift shaft, the shift forks, shift interlock and the shift gate. 

The main selector shaft is mounted within a ball bearing sleeve.

 The main selector shaft is moved from the outer plate axially and radially.

The main selector shaft contains the following components:

  • Shift finger, which is pinned to the main selector shaft.
  • Lock plate.
  • Switching pen holder, also pinned to the main selector shaft.
  • Locking device for the gears 1-3-5, Neutral, and 2-4-reverse.
  • Actuating pin to the reverse light switch.
  • Shift fork for 1st and 2 Gear.
  • Spring to keep the selector shaft in neutral position.

On the side selector shaft is:

  • The shift fork for the 5th and reverse gear.
  • The shift fork for 3rd and 4th Gear.

A light press fit helps guide the secondary selector shaft in the front and rear gear case.

The shift forks are mounted on the shifting shafts with radial ball bearings.

Note:

The ball sleeve bearings of the main and secondary shafts and the shaft of the shift forks (total 8 pieces) are identical.

Before installation, the ball sleeve bearings are wetted with specified gear oil.

The shift gate is secured with two fitting bolts on the rear gearbox.

The reverse lock is attached the shift gate and secured with a clip.


  1. Shift gate
  2. Reverse lock

Transmission Construction
  1. Circlip
  2. Ball Bearings – Drive Shaft
  3. Circlip
  4. Drive shaft
  5. Synchronous Ring 4 Gear
  6. Needle bearing – drive shaft
  7. Circlip
  8. Synchronizer 3 / 4 Gear
  9. Synchronous Ring 3 Gear
  10. 3rd gear Gear
  11. Needle bearing 3 Gear
  12. Inner race ring 3 Gear
  13. Needle bearing 2 Gear 14th Gear 2 Gear
  14. Synchronous Ring 2 Gear
  15. Circlip
  16. Synchronizer 1 / 2 Gear
  17. Synchronous Ring 1 Gear
  18. 1st Gear Gear
  19. Needle bearing 1 Gear
  20. Main shaft
  21. Needle roller bearings
  22. Reverse gear
  23. Synchronizer ring reverse
  24. Synchronizer 5 and reverse
  25. Backup ring 27 Synchronous ring 5 Gear
  26. 5th Gear Gear
  27. 5th needle bearing Gear
  28. Ball bearings – main shaft
  29. Spacer
  30. Speedo drive
  31. Output flange
  32. Nut
  33. Stock – countershaft
  34. Inner race – countershaft
  35. Gearing – Gear Block
  36. Reverse-idler
Drive Shaft

  1. Drive shaft
  2. Drive gear wheel
  3. Synchronous fourth cone Gear
  4. Synchronizer ring
  5. Guide bearing – Main shaft
On the drive shaft is the drive wheel of the layshaft and the synchronizer for the 4th Gear. The drive shaft is mounted in the front gear case in a ball bearing. 
The ball bearing is held axially by a retaining ring in the transmission housing.

Note:

There are different drive shafts for the different gear ratios and engine versions. 

The drive shafts therefore differ not only by the number of teeth, but also in length. 

Therefore, it is important that the part number, engine and vehicle model information is used to obtain a replacement.

                                      Guide Sleeve – Driveshaft

  1. Guide sleeve
  2. Radial seal
  3. Thrust washer
  4. Thread (1.5 mm pitch)
  5. O-ring
  6. Polygon
The guide sleeve is made of aluminum and is screwed into the front gearbox. 
There is a thrust washer in the guide sleeve, for the front bearings of the main shaft. 
The guide sleeve has a radial seal and an O-ring, they can be replaced in service. 
Before fitting, clean the threads of the guide sleeve and the threads of the front transmission case. 
Prior to driving, the radial seal and the O-ring replaced and are wetted with specified gear oil. 
The guide sleeve is screwed in with a special tool 16-040 in the front gear housing and tightened to 150 – 170Nm.

Countershaft gear assembly housing


The bearing for the countershaft is held in position by the bearing housing and sealed with an O-ring seal. 

The O-ring seal can be replaced in service. 

The housing is made of aluminum and is screwed into the front gear case and secured with a locking plate. 

The housing can be installed with a commercially available internal hex wrench (17.0 mm).


  1. Housing
  2. O-ring
  3. Thread (pitch 1.5 mm)
  4. Allen (17.0 mm)
Before installation, clean the thread of stockholders and the thread in front gearbox housing. Then wet the O-ring seal to be replaced with specified gear oil.



After installation, the bearing holder is tightened to 20 ± 5 Nm and then rotated by 60°. Then with two blows of a brass spike and hammer hit the slugs, so that there is bearing clearance. It must be possible to turn the input shaft by hand. 

This ensures that the bearing is seated. Thereafter, the bearing housing is secured with the locking plate (see workshop manual). 

1. Bearing Housing – Allen (17.0 mm) 

2. Locking plate (screw with 9.0 to 11.0 Nm) 

3. Guide sleeve – drive shaft 4. Slugs.

Main Shaft
  1. Needle bearing – drive shaft
  2. Circlip
  3. Synchronizer 3 / 4 Gear
  4. Synchronous Ring 3 Gear
  5. 3rd gear Gear
  6. Needle bearing 3rd Gear
  7. Internal bearing race – needle bearing 3 Gear
  8. Needle bearing 2nd Gear
  9. Gear 2 Gear
  10. Synchronous Ring 2nd Gear
  11. Circlip
  12. Synchronizer 1 / 2 Gear 13th Synchronous Ring 1 Gear
  13. 1st Gear Gear
  14. Needle bearing 1st Gear
  15. Main shaft
  16. Needle bearing reverse
  17. Reverse gear
  18. Synchronizer ring reverse
  19. Synchronizer 5th and reverse
  20. Circlip
  21. Synchronous ring 5th Gear
  22. 5th Gear Gear
  23. 5th needle bearing Gear
The main shaft is mounted in the rear transmission housing in a ball bearing. 
The drive shaft in front of the main shaft is guided by roller bearings. 
The ball bearings are held in place by a retaining plate in the rear gear housing. 
The mounting plate is secured with 3 screws in the rear gearbox.


  1. Rear gear housing
  2. Plate
  3. Ball bearing – main shaft
  4. Roller bearings – countershaft
  5. Mounting screws – plate (3 pieces)
All Gear wheels are mounted on needle bearing. 
Thus the shiftability transmission is significantly improved. 
The needle bearing of 3. Gear Selection wheel running on an internal bearing race. 
The inner bearing race and the needle bearing are paired, so must be replaced together.


  1. Main shaft
  2. Internal bearing race – needle bearing 3 Gear selection wheel.
To renew the Internal bearing race of 3rd Gear wheel is heated with a heat gun (100 ° C), released with two suitable levers from it’s seat and taken off of the main shaft with a standard 2-arm puller. 

The Internal ring must not be overheated when heated.

The gears and synchronizer are held in place by three retaining rings. The retaining rings are available in different strengths in order to ensure the required mounting tolerances.

The main shaft is sealed in the rear gear housing with a radial sealing ring. This seal can be replaced with the transmission installed.


  1. Rear gear housing
  2. Radial seal
  3. Output flange
  4. Nut (self locking)
  5. Speedo drive
  6. Space

Gear Wheels

The Gear wheels of the MT 75 transmission are made of two parts:


  1. The gear body
  2. The cone clutch gear


The more recent Gear wheels were manufactured in one piece. For technical reasons, therefore had an approximately 4.0 mm wide machined nut placed between the running and the clutch teeth.

To optimize the smoothness compared to the previous design, the 2-piece gear design made it possible to tune the running gear after hardening and correct any hardening distortions.

After processing of the gear body and the cone clutch teeth, both parts are joined together so that as the later weld hardens no carbon forms.

After the curing process, the cone is separated from the tooth body to (grind) treat the running gear.

The advantages of this new technology are:

  • Optimum gear quality by treatment of the teeth (grinding)

  • Improved smoothness

  • More compact gear unit
.....................................................

Frank.

Friday, 15 January 2021

One Last Throw of the Morgan Hood Stay Dice...

 One Last Throw of the Morgan Hood Stay Dice...


While making my own versions of the Hood Stay above it was difficult not to let the mind wander towards a simpler method that could be used by those who may not want to go the whole way to buying materials and making those tricky measures and cuts.


Here is the outcome of the idea.

The Hood Stay is an old 1/2" Whitworth Spanner (But could equally be a12mm metric) and the Top Lug could be a matching 1/2" Nut but yesterday I could not be bothered to try and find one so just used a piece of the same 12mm Aluminium Rod I used for the Hood Stay Support.


The Old Steel Spanner in the vice.


Cutting off the unwanted end to a measurement of 11cm from the top edge.


The rough end corners filed round.


A 6mm Hole drilled in the rounded end equidistant from sides and end.

Note! It is not possible to use the countersunk bolts on this version due to the narrow shank and its thin cross section.
The Dome Head Bolt has a Stainless Washer on the outside and two Nylon Washers between the Stay and the countersunk hole it is to fit into.


Making the Top Lug from 12mm Rod - could also be a 1/2" Nut.

The hole drilled through the rod is 6mm


The Rod Length is just 12mm


The completed Hood Stay , Domed M6 x 25mm x Bolt and its Washer Set



The Top Lug along with its own M6 x 25mm Domed Head Bolt and Washer.


Using the Near Side to test the Hood Stay Set

The Top Dome Head Bolt and the lower nearest Countersunk Bolts will be removed and replaced.


The Countersunk Bolt Removed.


The Top Dome Head Bolt replaced by the 12mm Rod Top Lug, Bolt & Washer.


The Spanner Hood Stay fitted using the other Domed Bolt with is three washer is place.

Permanent fitting will require some Thread Lock to be applied to the bolt thread to prevent its loosening during use.


The Hood Stay in place and functioning well.

Frank


The Morgan Hood Stay - My Own Version.


The New Hood Stay Support 

This version of the Hood Stay Support was introduced by purchasing 1.2cm Aluminium Rod, cut to length and Drilled to suit the Wood Screw.
The Chrome Cap Cap and Threaded Washer sets were purchased on eBay

The full set of parts on my Kit.

The Aluminium Bar was purchased via eBay.

The Hood Stay is made from 2.5cm x 0.6cm bar cut 10.5cm long and cut to the tapered shape for design.

The Spigot is made from 2.5cm x 1cm bar cut 3.5cm in length.

All Bolts and Metal Washers are Stainless Steel.

Nylon Washers are of Polyester material. 

The diagrams were supplied by Designer colleague David Owens

Some Tools I used

Two Stays under construction

My Corner Shaping Rig.

For Detailed Cutting and Shaping

The Drill Set & Countersink Tool

Centre Punching the Drilling Positions


I started on the wrong foot by purchasing 2.5cm bar instead of 2cm so I set out to cut the width down while deciding to form a taper.

I preferred the finish so continued to use this wider bar.

Preparing the Spigot piece first.


I marked off the end of the short length of 1mm thick bar, donated to me by David, as per the drawing and drilled 2mm pilot holes after spot punching the locations.

I formed these Vice Jaw Protectors out of Perforated Aluminium Sheet which was all I possessed. 

While an odd choice, they did protect the surfaces 


After cutting to the lines using my small hacksaw and filing and smoothing with emery cloth this was the result.

At this point I realised that the nose of my piece was larger that in David's photo but decided to progress.


I marked the position for the fixing hole, centering on the 2.5cm square part of the spigot.


Next I spot marked the position with my spot punch.


The photo record here jumps a lot as here I have drilled a 6mm hole in the Spigot which I have not countersunk,
I realised that using the existing bolt type would not require one for me. 

I next filed the rounds on the top corners and smoothed the whole surface using emery cloth.

Working from a center line I marked out the recess in the Support Arm using the Spigot as a template for the recess. 



I then marked and drilled 4 x 1.5mm pilot holes along the base of the recess with difficulty controlling their verticality. 

These allowed me to break out the infill once the two sides had been cut.


It was then a case of file fitting the two parts so that they meshed together well.


I then center marked and drilled another 6mm hole in the base of the support arm. I used the sides of my small grindstone set in my hand drill to round the lower corners 

I used a series of drill heads to countersink the hole to fit the screw head of the longer 2.5cm x 6mm Stainless Steel Bolt (sent to me along with the Nylon Washers by David)


A final rub over with emery and I was ready to Trial Fit the parts.


At this point all is well. The 2cm Spigot Fixing Bolt needed to be exchanged for a 2.5cm Bolt that I had in stock.


The alignment between Stay and Spigot appears to be good.


Unfortunately, not having a pillar drill to keep the pilot drill holes vertical has left me with a small groove in the side of the prop recess.


I failed to purchase a small piece of Aluminium sheet with which to fabricate the prop support in David's design. 

However, I utilised this tapered part of an old aluminum door knob and replaced this with the Aluminium Rod purchased for the next set made.. 


The converted door knob.


The support fitted to the inner wall. The Chrome Cap was introduced following this plain version.


The prop in its supported location.


It was then just a case of refitting the prop with the recommended Thread Lock.
Thread Lock will prevent loosening of its fixing bolt during frequent use.

Best Wishes
Frank

................................

Monday, 21 December 2020

Fitting the New Peter Gilbert Morgan 7" Wiper Blades.

 Fitting a set of the new Peter Gilbert Morgan 7" Wiper Blades.


These Blades are currently available in 7inch length for the 3 Blade cars and 6inch for the pre 1968 2 Blade cars.

Please Contact Peter at the email address above to establish availability and cost.

One of my new 7 inch blades.


The complete set of three new blades.


A very simple and speedy job to replace my blades. 
The new blades will adopt the same angle and sweep of the existing blades. 

Peter Notes:
Very often the arms need a slight tweak on the bend to ensure that they lay parallel when parked. You would think that the Dealers would pick this up on their Pre Delivery Inspection and sort it out.
It is quite amazing how different the wiper arms are bent to fit the Morgan Car, or not as the case may be in some cases. 
6" Blades have now arrived for the older 2 seater cars and are going down well but I only have a small quantity left.


This is considered to be perfect parking.

It may be possible to bend the arms to get them parallel with the bottom of the windscreen then adjust the arm on the splines to re position. 

There are different arms in use on some models. The Splines are the same but some arms have a spring clip to hold them in place. Others have a screw fitting. 

This owner did 'fine tune' each arm by bending the part arrowed in the photo above so that they now function and park beautifully.

It is never straight forward with a Morgan.

Perhaps leave well alone if they work ok. 

The wiper blades can be easily replaced.

It would appears that my own offside blade could need a little tweak to get it to park parallel. 

However, I will not be tinkering with anything to change the blade arm angles until the blades have been used during heavy rain.

Frank

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Some user Comments from Talk Morgan.

- For all those interested in Peters new 6" wiper blades for the shorter windscreen I have just fitted a set to my 4/4 and they do not appear out of place and do not look too chunky. They are well made and I am well pleased.

- Yes I agree they are brilliant well worth the money!,,,

- On my car the passenger side is 6 inch whilst the rest are 7 inch as the 7 inch fouls the frame at the top of the arc. The 7 inch worked perfectly on my S1 Roadster. It transferred them to my Brooklands and the n/s one had the blade crossing the screen frame at the top of a stroke. I have a 6 inch unit now that I will test when I collect the car Wed. 

- I agree too, much better quality. Why doesn't the factory fit these?

- Excellent....

- Had to use my wipers with the 6 inch blades today in a heavy downpour mixed with hail.
Must confirm they are really excellent.
Can recommended them.

- The wiper blades are brilliant, much better than my modified Bosch wiper blades. I do have adjustable length wiper arms but I can not find a position that does not let the end of the rubber hit the chromed screen frame at full wipe. Before I order a wiper motor gear with a reduced sweep can anyone tell me what the gear that I should order would be?

- First drive in really heavy rain today, with the new wipers.
WOW...
Proper wipers.....no smearing, just clear wipes on forward and back strokes....
Thanks Peter, possibly the best mod I've made...!!

- Agreed they are brilliant.

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