Remote Lubrication for The Morgan Sliding Pillar Front Susupension

Greasing Your Morgan from just One Side of the Engine Bay

Remote Lubrication is not a new concept as the picture above will confirm.

.

However, with the Modern Morgan Front Suspension System having Four, difficult to access, Grease Nipples requiring attention with your Grease Gun every 500 to 1000 miles of driving.
A Remote Lubrication System will benefit that process immensely.

A Remote Greasing System, which does not require lying on the ground and stretching under the car to reach the Nipples, must have significant advantages.

Morgan Roadster 100 Owner, Engineer and Classic Car Restorer, Lars Frosell from Sweden has given this issue serious consideration and has designed a Remote Greasing System with the additional benefit of allowing All Four Nipples to be greased from just One Side of the Engine Bay. 

As the photo above shows, The Complete Kit contains:

• 1. The 'Lars Frosell' Engine Bay Bracket 
• containing 
• a). Four BSPT 1/8" Lubrication Nipples
• b). Two Red and Two Green Dust Protection Caps
• c).  Four Straight BSP 1/8" Pipe Coupling Connectors
• 2. Two Top Angled Pipe Connectors 1/4" 
• 3. Two Lower Angled Connectors BSPT 1/8"
• 4. Two M6 x1.0 Engine Bay Connecting Bolts
• 5. Sufficient Length of Black Plastic Hose

Fitting Instruction.

Start by lifting the car onto Axle Stands and removing both of the Front Road Wheels.

Working on the Near Side first, there are Two Grease Nipples on the Sliding Pillar Assembly. 

Remove both of these nipples, one from the top of the assembly and one from the lower end.

Please Note the Tread Size differences on each Nipple.

Replace the Top Nipple with one of the Two Top 1/4" Angled Pipe Connectors.

Complete the process with the Pipe Connector facing the Engine Bay Wall.

Replace the Lower Grease Nipple with one of the Two Lower Angled Connectors BSPT 1/8".

Reuse the star washer from the original nipple. 

Complete the process by Angling the Pipe Connector upwards as shown in the photo.

Repeat the whole process for the Offside Sliding Pillar Assembly

 Install the Engine Bay Lubrication Bracket 

This located in the front of the Nearside Engine Bay Wall using an existing hole there for attaching one M6 fixing bolt. 

Mark & Drill a second fixing hole for the second M6 bolt.

The kit contains both Bolts & Nuts. 

Connecting the Hoses.

There is sufficient length of hose in the kit to reach all four existing greasing points. 

It is recommended to use the Red Covered Nipples for the Lower Grease Points and the Green Covered Nipples for the Upper Grease Points.

Connect one end of the black hose to the first Red Clutch Connector on the lower side of the Lubrication Bracket. 

When tightening these Clutch Nuts, first screw in 'hand tight' and then tighten only 3/4 of a turn using a spanner. No more!

Thread the Black Hose along the top of the 'A' Frame and pass it out into the Offside Wheel Arch.

Allow the tube to find its own natural curve towards each of the Grease Connectors.

Measure and Cut the tube to the correct length using a sharp knife for a clean cut without any burrs.

Before connecting the black tube to the clutch connectors, prime the whole length of tube with new grease pumped into the tube from its nipple in the Lubrication Bracket.

Now connect the tube to its Clutch Nut and Tighten as before.

Repeat the whole process for the Nearside Lower Connector and both of the Upper Connectors.

Once all four connections have been completed it is recommended to secure the Black Pipes to the 'A' Frame using black cable ties.

Refit the road wheels, remove the Axle Stands and you are
ready for a future of trouble free King Pin Greasing.

A lovely, Simple to Fit, System which Lars is now offering for sale.

The complete price for the Kit including Shipping is £74.00 from:

Lars Frosell, Strandvagen 30, 737 91 Fagersta, Sweden.

Order by Email to lars-frosell@hotmail.se

Tel: +4676-2059399

Regular Greasing

The recommended regular greasing method is to use four pumps of the grease gun for each of the lower nipples and two pumps for each of the top nipples.

Wipe clean any old grease if it is found to be exiting the joints at the base of the suspension springs close to the Brake Discs.

Changing my Roadster 100 Radio Arial

For some time now I have been using my radio aerial to promote either the Morgan Centenary Roadster 100 Register, Help for Heroes or our registers current charity, Combat Stress.
Flying a flag on the aerial post has proved to be a bad idea.

With strong winds this method eventually loosened the joints in the aerial stem such that it ceased to stay up. I needed a new aerial.

Following discussions with another Register member, who's aerial had a similar problem, we discussed alternative aerials.

Wanting to retain the cars originality, I trawled the internet and discovered that the exact same aerial used by The Morgan Motor Company was available on eBay from Car Masts UK and their S - L 500 is not expensive at £13.95.

I ordered a new one immediately.

The fitted Aerial Mast

The component parts

The Packaged New Aerial

The Parts Ready for fitting.

The Base Parts

The Mast Support Parts

I pondered:

1. how difficult it would be to get at the fixing points behind the foot-well sidewall carpets and, 

2. how difficult it would be to find the route and thread the cable to the rear of the radio housing.

It was about this time, in the course of events, that the other owner contacted me to say:

"I notice on this eBay aerial it screws out of the base unit.  If the one on the MOG does the same it should be a quick fix!"

 An immediate visit to the garage established that the Roadster's aerial did unscrew. 

The identical Aerial Base

The identical Support Bracket

I unscrewed my Faulty Aerial but found that the black ferrule prevented me from sliding it out, upwards through the support bracket.

As the support bracket is only fixed with one screw I was able to gently swing the mast at enough of an angle to allow me to remove it from the lower side.

This was before I had unscrewed the new mast from its base and discovered that the black ferrule on both masts was actually detachable.

I checked both of the mast screw threads to establish that they are identical.

The unused Base Unit and cable.

It took no time at all to apply a smear of grease to the thread, slide in the new mast, attach its lower ferrule and screw the new mast into the existing base unit until it is hand tight .

A quick polish of the parts to remove finger marks and a test of the radio to establish that all was well and one of the most simple jobs on my Morgan was complete.

Thank You Graham for spotting the simple solution.